Bonjour mes amis! And how are we now that fashion month has
come to a close? My balls are on fire, so I’ll definitely be investing in some
botox for the soles next season… although you know what they say dolls, in the
words of the crazy/beautiful Paloma Faith, “COMFORT IS FOR CUNTS.”
Now that I’ve got that
profanity out of the way, I guess I’ll get on with the Parisian designer
showdown- although, this time it wasn’t just the designers who were getting in
on the sparring action. Heidi Slimane, the new head honcho at Yves Saint
Laurent- sorry, Saint Laurent Paris- ruffled more than a few feathers when he
banned New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn from attending his debut show.
According to Cathy, the reason behind Heidi’s bitch fit (he has a girl’s name
for a reason) dates back to 2004, when she wrote in one column, “Without Mr
[Raf] Simons' template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not
have been a Heidi Slimane.” Now where was the harm in that?
Wellllll dolls, Slimane and Simons are long-standing rivals,
apaz. Both 44 (32 in fashion years), both started out in menswear, both showing
their debut ready-to-wear collections for equally massive fashion houses this
season. Makes sense, dunnit?
Never one to take things lying down, Monsieur Slimane then
took another pop at Caf, mocking up a faux NY Times page which brands her “a
schoolyard bully”, “a stand-up comedienne” and states that she’ll never get a
seat at YSL, however she might get a 2-for-1 special at Dior. Mioooooow! Why
have I never thought to fight fire with fire through the pages of a mocked-up
magazine before?!
Anyway, with that fash fight remaining unresolved, let’s
check out the runway! Drum roll puh-leeease for my top five PFW power playas!
A relative newbie to the Paris fashion scene, Vaccarello trained
under THEE Karl Lagerfeld, so his reputation perhaps precedes his own
collections. Thankfully, he more than meets the sky high expectations bestowed
upon him!
His supermodel line-up was far superior to any F-Row; Anja,
Arizona, Cara, Jourdan, Karlie. And his collection? Monochrome vs. molten
metallic. Part Une had a chic utilitarian feel, loose fitting pants teamed with
sharp tailored blazers, oversized shirts with miniskirts, zips and pockets
aplenty. Then the sequins crept in, subtly in black at first, then gold and
sexy iridescent leopard prints. RAWR.
The piece de resistance? Anja Rubik in a black
slashed-to-the-thigh gown, not too dissimilar to the white Vaccarello maxi she
rocked at this year’s Met Gala. Pure. Sex.
Perhaps I’ve become too engrossed in the new version of
Dallas, but I’m currently lusting after Balmain’s power shoulders like Britney
craves In And Out Burger. What else was on offer? Leather, laser cutting and Beetlejuice
stripes. Playing with proportions, those masculine shoulders were given mini
hemlines, wideleg pants were teamed with crop tops and skinny trews were teamed
with oversized blazers.
The zany patterns might not be to everyone’s taste, but
personally I’d love to take a bite of head designer Olivier Rousteing…
Marc Jacobs is a man who knows how to put on a show. Fresh
from wowing with last season’s steam train, and the Kate Moss carousel the
season before, what tricks did the honorary Frenchman have up his sleeve?
Escalators. Four huge escalators which models rode up and
down into the courtyard at the Louvre, on to a yellow and white checkerboard
floor. And it seemed that checks were the theme of this season’s show, as Louis
V’s iconic monogram was replaced by their signature Damier canvas.
Black, white, yellow, green, see-through, YOU HEARD IT HERE
FIRST, IT’S COOL TO BE SQUARE! Oriental floral patterns were the only variation
from MJ’s geek chic chessboard, with shapes kept straight and simple; pencil
skirt suits, ¾ sleeved shift dresses and the occasional block colour to balance
things out. But, in all honesty, who cares about the collection when the
presentation is this fabulous?
Sarah Burton brought honey to the bee and sex back to
McQueen with her latest collection. From the video of live bees playing behind
the runway, to the beekeeper hat-come-masks and honeycomb inspired prints, girl
done good. With emphasis on the waist and an hourglass shape, created by amber
belts and structured peplums, Ms. Burton showed that she wasn’t all Royal
Wedding frocks and nice girl designs. Instead she created a collection which
the flamboyant Alexander himself would have sent down the runway.
The hats and stripper heels added that fetish element the
house is known for, as did caged bodices and shackle-style wrist cuffs.
Crinoline skirts resembling cages definitely had the 50 Shades factor, and even
the softer prom dresses, for all their beauty, were worn with a flash of bra.
Kinky biatch!
A hula hoop handbag? I’ll take two! Any designer who creates
an It bag I can also exercise with is a fucking genius… Enter Karl Lagerfeld.
With his runway of solar panels and wind turbines, was the King of Fashion
getting all eco-friendly on our asses? Not a chance. But they made a pretty
cool backdrop.
The show was all about Chanel’s iconic pearls, adorning box
jackets in their hundreds, wrists and necks in their thousands, and placed
singularly atop the models’ bun hairstyles. It was a fun runway, filled with
colour, leather and the classic boucle the house is known for. Models carried
with wide Perspex brims, swimwear was cut-out with the signature double “C”,
and THAT BAG was just unlike anything I’ve ever seen before. AND THIS IS COMING
FROM THE DOLL WHO HAS EVERYTHING!
The only questionable part of the show came with the sheer
black feather-trimmed clown suit. I mean really? Who sites “gothic Big Bird” as
their style icon? However, I’m willing to overlook this misdemeanour thanks to
J-Lo and her adorable four-year-old daughter Emme on the F-Row. It’s not what
you know, but who’s rocking your couture!
‘Til next time dolls… go take a fashion shower!
Love Barbie x








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